FLOOD WATER DAMAGE AND
RECOVERY:
Time is the key factor in the extent of damage done to the
elements of the structure. If the water has been in the
structure more than a few hours, the damage and amount of material
which will need to be removed will be extensive. In this
case, items such as gypsum board on the walls and ceilings and
insulation under the floor, within the walls and above ceilings
become damaged beyond repair and must be removed to minimize
further damage to the overall structure.
It is absolutely necessary to initiate the drying process
throughout the structure as quickly as possible. CROSS
VENTILATION IS THE MOST EFFECTIVE WAY TO PROMOTE DRYING OUT
OF THE INTERIOR OF THE STRUCTURE. This will require the
opening of all doors, both interior and exterior, and opening of
all windows, to allow the maximum amount of air movement throughout
all rooms of the structure, including closets and other
spaces. The movements of air throughout the structure can be
supplemented by the use of fans and air conditioning. DO NOT
USE HEATERS TO ASSIST IN DRYING OUT THE STRUCTURE. Heaters
can actually cause the humidity inside the structure to increase
rather than decrease and will also promote growth of mildew and
bacteria. KEEP THE STRUCTURE WELL VENTILATED UNTIL THE
INTERIOR MATERIALS ARE COMPLETELY DRY. The length of time
will vary. If extensive water soaking has occurred, you may
need to test materials with a moisture meter. Most painters
and paint stores have moisture meters that can be used for this
purpose.
BASIC CLEAN-UP
PROCEDURES:
After removal of wet and soaked materials, it is necessary to
wash down all surfaces with disinfectant. Common household
bleach (Clorox or similar bleaches) will help you rid the
structure of mildew and mold and will help prevent their
growth. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THE BLEACH BE MIXED AT A RATIO
OF 5 TO 1 (FIVE PARTS WATER TO ONE PART BLEACH). Use of a
standard garden type sprayer will help with thorough application of
the bleach mixture. Wash down all surfaces, being sure
to wear appropriate gear such as rubber gloves. Face-masks
and goggles are also recommended. Concrete and masonry wall
surfaces can be hosed down and then scrubbed. Do not use
bleach on fabrics. Mattresses and most upholstered items that
are completely saturated with contaminated water are not
salvageable. Follow local regulations regarding disposal.
PROTECT YOUR EYES, MOUTH, HANDS AND FEET (WEAR A MASK, GOGGLES,
RUBBER GLOVES AND BOOTS) WHEN CLEANING OUT DEBRIS LEFT BY FLOOD
WATERS. Use disinfectants to wash your hands before
eating.
BEFORE YOU
PROCEED:
After the water has receded enough to the point that it is no
longer standing in your home or business, you should begin clean-up
procedures.
Before beginning clean-up efforts, it is recommended that
individuals get a tetanus shot if their vaccination is not
current. Boosters are good for approximately 10 years.
Check with the local health department for more information.
Before entering the building, be certain that the electricity
has been turned off. If power is still provided to the
flooded area, immediately disconnect power throughout the structure
by switching the main breaker in the electrical panel to OFF.
Verify that gas-burning appliances are not on and that no gas is
leaking out of appliances, space heaters or water heaters into the
structure.
The flood waters carry all types of creatures which have been
displaced from their usual habitats along creeks and river
bottoms. Before beginning any work, it is necessary that you
make a thorough walk-through of the structure, carefully check in
all closets, corners, cabinets, drawers, attic spaces, and similar
locations throughout the structure for animals, insects and
snakes.
When performing clean-up activities, be absolutely certain to
WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, GOGGLES, BOOTS AND OTHER PROTECTIVE GEAR to
prevent direct contact with flood water or water-logged
items. The flood water and materials which were exposed to
flood waters contain all sorts of debris and bacteria, which, when
in direct contact with skin, can have harmful effects leading to
illness or infection. Be watchful of small children and do
not allow them to play in the affected areas or with materials
which have been exposed to flood water.
Take photographs and make written notes describing the damage
prior to removal and as the removal process proceeds. A video
recording would also be a very effective way to document flood
damage. This documentation will be useful if claims need to
be filed with insurance companies, banks or various agencies
later.
FOUNDATIONS:
Structures that are constructed on concrete block or brick piers
and foundations should be checked to verify that the flood waters
have not deteriorated mortar joints and weakened the
foundations. Most older buildings and homes have masonry and
brick foundations.
Visually inspect the foundations both around the perimeter and
under the house (again, watch for displaced snakes, animals and
dangerous insects) and check footings to be sure mortar has not
been washed out of joints between the bricks and block.
If a significant amount of mortar has been lost but the pier or
foundation still has adequate structural integrity, the missing
mortar can be replaced without dismantling the pier or
foundation. To do so, use a loose mortar poured into joints
to refill the voids and reestablish the overall structural
integrity of the foundation. It is advisable to have a
professional check the extent of damage to footings or piers and
foundations if you do find that mortar has been washed from between
the joints.
FLOORS:
Immediately remove the carpet throughout the structure. If
there is a pad below the carpet, remove it as well. Carpet
and pad that have been soaked with flood water contain high amounts
of bacteria that are hazardous to health. Health hazards
aside, leaving such carpet inside will greatly inhibit the overall
drying process of the remainder of the structure. It must be
removed.
Floor covering other than carpet, such as vinyl, vinyl asbestos
and vinyl composition tile, may curl at the edges and the adhesive
may not keep secured to the floor. Removal and replacement
most likely will be necessary. These types of floor finishes
are extremely slippery when wet, so caution should be taken when
walking across them.
WARNING: ALL MATERIALS
CONTAINING 1% OR MORE ASBESTOS FIBERS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW TO BE
REMOVED AND DISPOSED OF IN ACCORDANCE WITH EPA, OSHA AND STATE
LAWS. SKILLED PERSONS SHOULD BE EMPLOYED TO ACCOMPLISH THIS.
FAILURE TO DO SO MAY CAUSE YOU TO SUFFER A LARGE FINE AND CLEAN UP
COSTS!
Other types of floor covering, such as clay or ceramic tile will
generally weather the flood well; however, the sub-flooring to
which the clay or ceramic tile may be attached may not dry out
satisfactorily-ultimately leading to the removal of these types of
flooring as well.
Wood flooring and wood sub-flooring are potentially the most
damaged of the materials in the building because absorbing water
causes wood to swell. When wood flooring or sub-flooring
becomes wet and cannot be dried out rapidly or adequately, the
flooring will swell and buckle. Generally, wood floors and
wood sub-floors will need to be removed and replaced.
However, in an effort to control costs, attempts should be made to
dry out this flooring after removal of carpeting or other floor
covering material in the hopes of saving it.
INTERIOR
WALLS:
Most residential structures and small commercial structures have
walls constructed of wood studs and gypsum board (commonly known as
sheetrock). Generally, exposure of gypsum board to water for
one or two hours will not damage it extensively. Gypsum board
which is exposed or in contact with water for longer than two hours
will require replacement. This is necessary not only to
remove the waterlogged and damaged gypsum board, but to open up the
walls and expose the cavities of the walls so that the insides of
the walls and wood studs within can dry out. If water-logged
or damaged gypsum board is not removed, the wall board will
ultimately powder and mildew, causing unpleasant odors and an
unacceptable base for paint.
Remove the gypsum board by cutting it horizontally at least 12
inches above the high water line and completely remove it all the
way back down to the floor.
Also, if any exterior or interior walls contain insulation, it
must also be removed from the wall cavities. Insulation which
has been immersed in water must be removed for two reasons. First,
after being saturated, most insulation is rendered permanently
ineffective-particularly loose-fill varieties, such as cellulose,
vermiculite, rock wool, mineral fiber and blown-in fiberglass,
which, if left in place, can perpetuate high moisture conditions
destructive to wood, masonry and metals. High moisture
conditions will increase damage to the structure and make it more
difficult to dry out the building.
After removing the gypsum board and insulation from the affected
walls, it is absolutely vital and necessary to allow the framing
and wall cavities to thoroughly dry before installing new
insulation or applying new gypsum wall board.
The length of the drying time will vary depending on the amount
of water that was within the structure, the degree to which
waterlogged items have been removed from the structure, the amount
of cross-ventilation that is introduced and the weather conditions
during the drying period. DO NOT INSTALL NEW MATERIALS UNTIL
ALL EXISTING SURFACES ARE COMPLETELY DRY. A wood stud which
is dry to the touch may still be wet in the middle. Allow
adequate time for complete and comprehensive drying out of your
structure, typically between 1 and 6 weeks.
CEILINGS:
Even though the water may not have reached the ceiling, the
extreme humidity from the flood water may trigger swelling of the
gypsum board above, causing it to pull loose from the ceiling
framing. Check the ceiling by pressing upward on it, and if
nailheads appear on the surface, there is some damage.
Renailing and refinishing are the minimum response to this
condition; replacement may be necessary. Also, be certain to
check the insulation in the attic when this occurs, as it may have
become moist and may not allow the gypsum board to dry-resulting in
additional problems, such as mildew. Replacement of the
insulation will be required.
DOORS AND
CABINETS:
Doors and cabinets are both generally constructed of wood, which
will swell and become unusable with time. Also, many cabinets
are made of plywood or particle board, which will delaminate or
come apart with time. Doors other than solid wood are also
made with veneers. The problem of delamination of plywood and
doors will not appear for several days, but will be obvious when
the plywood or door begin to peel away from the substrate.
Solid wood or wood panel doors have a better survival rate.
However, these, too, should be watched for swelling and subsequent
shrinkage which might cause them to crack.
EXTERIOR
WALLS:
Many houses and small commercial structures in this area are
constructed of brick veneer with a water-resistant sheathing as a
back-up. This sheathing generally will not be damaged if the weep
holes-- the slots near the bottom of the brick-are free and open to
allow for the water within the wall to drain out and the air to
enter and assist in drying the cavity between the exterior
sheathing and the back side of the brick. If weep holes are
blocked with debris or silt, clean them out. Removal of a
brick at the base of the wall every 48" or so will aid the drying.
If done properly, the mortar can be cut around a brick and the
brick saved for replacement. In some extreme cases, brick(s) at the
top of the wall may need to be removed.
Houses that have elevated floors should have all the perimeter
vents opened to allow for as much cross-ventilation and movement of
air in the crawl space as possible. This is necessary to
adequately dry out the floor joists and floor sheathing from the
underside in an effort to minimize the amount of damage to the
floor joists as well as the wood sub-floor throughout the
structure.
DUCTWORK
SYSTEMS:
Ductwork systems also need to be flushed thoroughly and
disinfected, as water that has filled the ductwork will deposit
bacteria and germs that can introduce illnesses into the structure
when the system is utilized.
GAS SYSTEM:
Water can collect in gas lines, causing the pilot light for
appliances, heaters and water heaters to burn improperly, and in
some cases go out. Gas can escape if there is a faulty valve
or thermal couple. The gas system within the structure should
be checked, and appliances checked for proper operation.
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEMS:
Electrical systems should be thoroughly checked, especially if
the water rose above the wall outlets. Silt can collect in
these and cause short circuits. Also check all light switches
and light fixtures for water if the flood waters were high enough
to reach them. Absolute precautions should be taken when
checking the electrical systems and a professional should be called
in if there is any concern or question regarding the condition or
status of the electrical system.
APPLIANCES:
Most appliances have the electric motor mounted very low to the
floor, so even a small amount of water in the structure can cause
damage to motors and bearings. Do not attempt to use these
appliances until the motors, their controls and elements have been
checked by qualified personnel.
REPAINTING:
Even those areas found to be sound and reusable probably will
have some stains. The stains will bleed through the new paint if
precautions are not taken to prevent this. Cover the stain with
white shellac or other paint type materials available from your
paint store. One popular brand of water stain cover is KILZ.
Be sure all surfaces are thoroughly dry before painting or the
paint will blister and peel.
FINALLY:
Exercise extreme care when cleaning out a structure following a
flood. Use protective gear and procedures as recommended.
This information was complied on behalf of the AIA North
Carolina, 115 West Morgan Street, Raleigh, NC, 27601, (919)
833-6656, with assistance from the National Component of the
American Institute of Architects.
